Ben Boyd National Park

Last Friday, Jeremy, Adrian, Chris and I all headed down to Ben Boyd National Park, located on the extreme south coast of New South Wales, for what we hoped would be a beautiful end-of-summer excursion to a remote beach. We had a really nice time, though it didn’t all turn out exactly as planned.
That afternoon we made our camp at the mouth of Saltwater Creek, just up from a small crescent of beach flanked on either side by rocky cliffs. The weather was perfect—about 25 degrees and mildly humid. After pitching our tents (a small one for Adrian and another one for the rest of us) and rolling out our sleeping bags, we amassed a giant pile of firewood with the expectation of a cool evening spent around the warmth of the fire.
I then got a small fire going in preparation for cooking dinner, which was my responsibility. Whilst the fire was burning down to a nice bed of coals, I buttered potatoes and desilked ears of corn, all of which I wrapped in alfoil and laid on the by-then glowing embers. The potatoes went on first and then, after a while, the corn. Lastly, I swung a grill over a bit of open fire which I’d maintained and tossed on some lamb chops, glazing them at the very end with a mango-chilli sauce. When the chops were charred and smoky, the veg came out of the fire, and then we feasted, adding butter, sour cream, and shredded cheese liberally to the crisped potatoes.
We’d planned on building the fire back up after the food was cooked, but it didn’t turn out to be a campfire night; it was just too warm. At 9:00 at night, it was still about 25 degrees. Consequently, we let the fire die down and then headed down to the beach instead. The moon hadn’t risen yet, and we had to navigate our way over a small row of dunes by torchlight, but, once there, we switched the lights off and sat in silence just up from where great waves were roaring onto the sand. It was a warm enough night that we’d considered going for a bit of a swim, but, when we’d gotten a bit closer to the water, we’d spotted a few blue bottles (called Portuguese men-of-war in the US) that the tide had brought in; therefore, we didn’t want to risk the water in the dark.
It was beautiful just to sit in the warm, salty night air, though. The stars were out in their far-from-civilisation brilliance, and we lay on our backs and watched for any meteorites, enjoyed the sea breeze, and talked about deep and meaningful things til about 11:00.
We went to bed at 11:30, after some tooth brushing, praying, and scripture reading. It was an absolutely perfect night. It had cooled off some, but it was still around 20 degrees all night. We’d sited our tent so that the sea breeze blew straight through one window and out the other, so we had beautiful ventilation as we slept. For a lullaby we had the regular roar of the surf punctuated at random intervals by wind gusts which whistled through the tops of the gum trees overhead.
When we went to bed, we all supposed that we’d be up again bright and early the next morning—which is usually what happens on a camp—but the night was especially enchanting, and none of us actually woke up til 9:40. That was the best sleep-in I’ve had in ages.
Jeremy was in charge of cooking breakfast, but for some reason he offered to pack up all my gear and take the tent down if I’d do it, which seemed like a fair trade to me, so I once again put on my chef hat. We had another lovely meal—thick rashers of bacon, eggs, hash browns, and slices of bread toasted over the open fire. Actually, it would have been a lovely meal—if we’d been allowed to eat it in peace. This, however, was not to be.
When I’d first stepped out of the tent that morning, I’d discovered that we were not alone. Several kangaroos had moved into our camp during the night and were placidly feeding around us. Amazingly, they seemed to have no fear of humans whatsoever, and we were able to approach them easily. They weren’t the cause of the trouble, however.

The troublemaker was a four-and-a-half-foot-long goanna who, upon smelling the bacon I was cooking, decided to invite himself to breakfast. For those who may not know, goannas are the world’s second-largest living lizards, smaller cousins of nearby Indonesia’s komodo dragons.
And this goanna, like the kangaroos, seemed to have no fear of humans. This was a problem because he was also determined to have some—perhaps all—of our breakfast. At first he tried the subtle approach, slowly sauntering into camp, stopping, moving a bit closer to the fire, moving, etc. When we tried to spook him away by beating on the ground with sticks, he would move away for a few minutes, but then he’d circle the camp and invade again from a different direction. After our best attempts at getting him to well and truly move on, he got a bit more agro. Several times he ran at us, rearing up and lunging at us with his three-inch-long claws.

More than once we had to pick up the plates of cooked food and retreat away from our own fire. This really slowed down the cooking process. It also slowed down the eating process because he was still determined to get a bit of our food, and he even attacked Chris whilst he was sitting down trying to eat at one point. Nothing we could do worked, either. At one point I actually got a long tree branch and poked him in the neck and stomach with it, but he simply ignored me and kept at the bacon. Needless to say, we only ate in spurts, mostly standing up.
Thankfully, however, we did get our food eaten—and just in time, too. Just as we finished packing the esky into the boot of Jeremy’s car, two of our interloper’s mates showed up, and I quickly realised that the four of us would never have been able to fend off a pack of three greedy goannas.
We’d planned to spend the rest of the day on the beach, but it was a bit overcast, so we decided instead to hike down the coast about five kilometres to where there was a hidden bay, our hope being that the day would have warmed up some by then. In this we were disappointed. It was a beautiful hike with great views of the seaside cliffs we were traversing, but, by the time we’d reached the other bay, it had started to rain. The drops were light at first, so we tried to outwait them, the forecast having warned us that there might be ‘scattered light showers’ that day, but there was nothing scattered or light about this rain as it settled into a steady, icy-cold downpour. Consequently, we simply gave up, hiking back to the car, where we arrived soaked to the bone and a bit chilled.
As there was no alternative, we then cut our day short and headed home several hours earlier than planned. We had a constant downpour of rain throughout almost the entire trip. I couldn’t complain, though; we’ve been bone-dry here for too long, and the recent rain, though not good for a beach day, has been a tremendous blessing, turning the entire landscape into something which currently looks a bit more like Ireland than this ‘sunburnt country’ which I love so intensely.
